A Raucous, Noodle-Fuelled Tribute to Bangkok’s Chinatown Arrives in London

The eatery, which takes the place of the much missed Taiwanese restaurant Xu as well as chef and grower Luke Farrell's former banh mi pop-up Viet Populaire, pays homage to Bangkok's Yaowarat Road.

For that tribute, Farrell envisions a fusion of obscenely flavorful soup noodles and curries, acidic and spicy salads, and wok meals inspired by the Samut Sakhon and Samut Sonkhram coastal cuisines.

Tom Yam Mama, a late-night mixture of Mama brand instant noodles, pork, squid, and the acid of lime and herbal aroma of coriander, marked with scarlet chilli oil, serves as the menu's centrepiece.

Chinese siu mei, prepared using Lo's Noodles ingredients and baked in a bullet oven with Thai curry pastes and sauces, are added to the menu.

The beverage selection will also be somewhat of an event, featuring huge whiskey sodas and slushied beers with honey, calamansi, and ginger flavours that are poured into frozen glasses.

Farrell, whose Dorset nursery Ryewater has long provided some of the city's greatest Thai restaurants, and JKS, the organisation behind places like Gymkhana, Hoppers, and most recently Arcade Food Hall, have partnered to open Speedboat, their second full-fledged restaurant.

The first, Plaza Khao Gaeng, dedicated to the cuisine and culinary culture of southern Thailand, opened above that food hall in April of this year.

Both eateries are self-aware homages, not just in the dish selection and preparation, but also in their precisely constructed, evocative designs, which rival those of a television set.

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